Flexlite GX 403W Parts FAQs
Spares for a water-cooled MIG torch: what to check on the cooling side, the neck and the front end, and how to choose and fit parts.
What extra checks does a water-cooled MIG torch need compared with an air-cooled one?
On top of the usual tip, nozzle and liner checks, look after the cooling circuit. Check the coolant level regularly, look at the colour of the coolant (discolouration suggests contamination), and inspect hoses and connections for chafing, kinks and small leaks.
Let coolant reach the front of the torch before you start welding, and make sure the lines are not kinked or pinched. Weak flow, a blocked filter or low coolant can overheat internal parts quickly, so follow the machine and torch maker's instructions for flow.
What coolant should I use in a water-cooled torch?
Use the coolant the torch and cooler maker specify. It is generally a low-conductivity coolant made for welding, not plain tap water, because dissolved minerals make it conductive and can cause corrosion and blockages.
Coolant ages, so many makers advise testing or replacing it on a regular schedule, and the interval and limits depend on the equipment. Do not mix coolant types, and do not use automotive antifreeze unless the maker says it is suitable. Check the manual for the correct type and change interval.
Why use heavy duty contact tips and nozzles on a high-current torch?
Higher-current work puts more heat into the tip and nozzle. Tips made from harder, heat-resistant copper alloys hold their shape better than plain copper at higher temperatures, and heavier nozzles are made for the larger front end. Their life still depends on current, duty cycle, cooling and spatter.
Match the tip to the wire diameter and the nozzle to the torch and the current you weld at. Nozzle material and size ratings differ between makers, so check the torch data plate and manual for the rating rather than assuming one nozzle suits every current.
Why do my contact tips overheat or discolour on a water-cooled torch?
Common causes are a tip that is only hand-tight, which creates resistance and heat; a tip bore that is too large for the wire, which causes micro-arcing; and a front end that is loose or dirty. Blue or purple threads on a removed tip suggest it was running hot because it was not tight enough.
Tighten the tip with the correct tool to the maker's guidance, check the diffuser and tip holder bores are free of spatter, and make sure coolant is flowing properly. Do not file the bore.