Lincoln Viking 3250D FGS Helmet Parts FAQs
Spares for an auto-darkening welding helmet: cover lenses, magnifying lenses, batteries, sweatbands and grinding shields, and how to choose the right ones.
Which parts of an auto-darkening welding helmet wear out first?
The parts that take the abuse are the clear outer cover lens, which collects spatter and scratches, the sweatband, which absorbs perspiration, and the battery or batteries that power the auto-darkening filter in helmets that use them. Headgear and any clear grinding shield are replaced when they become worn, cracked or scratched.
Helmet manuals tell users to replace cracked, scratched or pitted cover lenses regularly, and the auto-darkening filter sits behind them, so changing the cover lens in good time is the simplest way to protect it. Check your helmet's manual for the parts it uses and what it recommends.
How do I make sure a replacement cover lens or grinding shield fits my helmet?
Cover lenses, grinding shields and the filter itself are made in particular sizes and shapes for particular helmets. Use the manual and the markings on the old part to match the shape and size, and measure the old lens if you are unsure. A lens that looks close but is the wrong size may not seat properly and can leave gaps for spatter.
A helmet maker's manual says to use genuine parts only, because unauthorised parts may be dangerous. Also check the quantity per pack, since cover lenses usually come in multiples. If you cannot identify the part, our team can help you match it to the helmet.
How do I choose the right strength of magnifying lens?
A magnifying lens, sometimes called a cheater lens, fits inside the helmet window to help you see fine detail close up. Strength is given in diopters. A common starting rule is that the diopter equals one divided by your working distance in metres, so a working distance of half a metre points to about 2.0 diopters.
This is only a guide. Choose the weakest strength that gives a clear view at your normal working distance, and try before committing. Fine work such as TIG may suit a different strength from MIG or stick work. If you are unsure, an eye test, or reading glasses of known strength used as a reference, can help.
How do I know the battery in my helmet needs replacing, and which one do I buy?
Typical signs are a lens that is slow to darken, flickers, or fails to darken at all, or a low-battery indicator if your helmet has one. Helmet manuals say to replace batteries when the low-battery indicator shows, and not to keep welding if the lens does not darken. Batteries differ between helmets: many take lithium coin cells, sometimes two, so the type and number depend on the helmet.
Check the manual or read the markings on the battery you are removing and replace like for like. Check the filter darkens, using the helmet's own test or a safe light source as the manual describes, before you strike an arc. Open the compartment carefully, as the method varies by helmet.