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Speedtec 180C & 200C Options

Speedtec 180C & 200C Options FAQs

Answers on choosing drive rolls, leads and clamps, torches and a trolley to go with a compact MIG welder.

Which drive roll groove suits which wire?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Match the groove shape to the wire. A V-groove roll is the usual choice for solid steel and stainless wire. A V-knurled (toothed) roll grips gas-shielded and self-shielded flux-cored and metal-cored wires, but it is not normally used on solid wire because it can shave it. A U-groove roll is designed for aluminium and other very soft wires, because it feeds them without deforming them.

Roll names vary, so check the feeder manual for which rolls fit your machine before ordering.

How do I match drive rolls to wire diameter and set the tension?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Choose rolls whose groove size matches the wire diameter you will use. Rolls often carry two sizes, one on each side, so check the marking and fit the right one to the front.

A common method is to release the tension fully, feed the wire against a block of wood while winding the tension up until the wire slips, then add a little more. Reset the tension whenever you change the rolls. Too little tension lets the rolls slip, while too much can deform the wire and shave debris into the liner. Always follow your machine manual.

What are the signs that my drive rolls need replacing?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Inspect the rolls each time you load a new spool. Grooves wear and lose grip, and the usual response of winding up the tension can crush the wire and clog the liner. Look for flattened or rounded grooves, debris built up in a knurled groove, loose or rough bearings, and rolls that slip even at correct tension. Wire that is marked or shaved is another warning.

Feeding problems such as birdnesting, burnback or erratic arcs can also come from a clogged or wrongly sized liner, a worn contact tip, or a long, coiled cable, so rule those out before replacing rolls.

How do I choose a work return cable and clamp?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Choose leads and a clamp with enough current-carrying capacity for the machine's output. Cables should be thick enough to carry the current safely, and the clamp must make an efficient contact with the workpiece, because a poor contact can overheat and arc.

Keep the return lead as short and direct as practical, and look for a clamp with good spring pressure and a clean copper contact. Check the rating marked on the cable and clamp against the data plate on your welder and your risk assessment.

Where should the return clamp be attached?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Attach the return clamp as near to the welding arc as possible, directly to the workpiece or the bench it sits on. Keep the contact surface free of rust, paint and oxide, and make sure the clamp is firmly secured.

Extraneous conductive parts, such as structures, wire ropes, slings or chains, should not be used as part of the return circuit unless they are the workpiece itself, because stray current can flow through places you did not intend. Check the clamp and its connection regularly during long jobs.

What should I check on an electrode holder and welding leads before use?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Leads, connectors and holders should be checked at regular intervals for fitness for use, and damaged or worn parts should be repaired or replaced. A quick visual check for damage before each shift is good practice, and any fault should be reported. Do not tape over damaged insulation, and keep connections clean and tight.

Use a holder that is insulated overall, so that no bare metal can be touched by accident. Do not rest a hot holder on flammable material. Check the rating marked on the holder against your machine.