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Remote controls, control panels, transport units and weld-cleaning kits for a high-output AC/DC TIG power source used with an air-cooled torch, and how to choose the right ones.
Common groups are remote controls (foot pedals and hand controls), control panels, transport units such as carts and trolleys with a cylinder carrier, and weld-cleaning kits for stainless steel.These are normally made for a particular family of machines, so check the data plate and the manual to confirm that an item suits your power source before ordering. Also check whether it is meant for your torch type, as some accessories only fit certain torch heads. If you are unsure, our team can help you choose.
Remote controls are not universal. Sockets, pin layouts and signal types differ between machines, and some use analogue signals while others use digital communication. A remote that plugs in may still not work fully.Check that the machine has a remote socket, that the manual lists the remote as suitable for your model, and that the machine is set to accept a remote. Wireless types also need a receiver and batteries. Quoted range figures are for ideal conditions, and obstructions and radio interference reduce them, so keep the receiver in a clear position and treat the range as a guide.
A foot pedal gives smooth control at a bench, where you can sit and rest your foot on it. Pressing further raises the current up to the maximum set on the machine, which helps on aluminium and on parts that change thickness.A hand or torch remote is more convenient when you are moving around the work, working in confined spaces or out of position, but adjusting a dial while welding can nudge the torch. Many welders keep both. Practise with each on scrap so that you know which suits your work before relying on it for a finished joint.
An air-cooled torch relies on the surrounding air and the shielding gas to carry heat away, so heat builds up with the current and the torch can become uncomfortable or overheat on long welds at high output. Its rating is given as a duty cycle: the percentage of a 10-minute period it can run at a stated current without overloading.Running above the rating makes the handle and cable heat up faster, which can mean stopping to let it cool. Stay within the maker's ratings, rest the torch between welds, and consider a water-cooled torch if you regularly weld at high current for long periods.
Post-flow keeps shielding gas flowing after the arc goes out. It protects the hot tungsten and the cooling weld from the air, and it helps cool the nozzle on an air-cooled torch.Setting it too short can leave a discoloured tungsten tip and contaminated weld end, while higher current generally means more time is useful. Suggested values vary between guides, so start from the maker's recommendation in the manual and adjust by looking at the tungsten and the end of the weld. If the machine has an automatic setting, it normally chooses a time to suit the current.
It removes the heat tint (coloured oxide) left around stainless steel TIG welds. A pad or brush carries an electrolyte over the weld while an electrical current passes through it. The coloured areas show that the protective chromium oxide layer is not intact, and the process restores it by cleaning and passivating in one step.It is used as an alternative to chemical pickling or abrasive cleaning. It is intended for stainless steel, so do not assume it suits other metals unless the maker says so. Always follow the maker's instructions for the electrolyte and the kit.