Answers on choosing, fitting and looking after the lenses, sweatbands and headgear for this type of auto-darkening welding helmet.
What is the difference between the outer cover lens and the inner clear lens?
The outer cover lens sits at the front of the helmet and takes the spatter, scratches and dust, so the filter behind it does not have to. The inner clear lens sits behind the filter, on the wearer's side, and helps keep dirt, sweat and small fragments away from the filter and your face.
Both are simple wearing parts made to be replaced, so that the filter itself does not have to be. They are normally different parts with different shapes, so do not assume that one fits in place of the other. Your helmet manual shows where each one goes.
How do I know when the outer cover lens needs replacing?
Look through it before each shift. Cover lenses should be clean and free of scratches before use, and should be replaced if pits or scratches appear. Spatter that will not wipe off, haze that makes the weld hard to see, or a crack are all reasons to change it.
A cover lens is a sacrificial part, so there is no fixed lifespan: it depends on the process, the amount of spatter and how much grinding is done nearby. Replace it as soon as it affects your view or has been damaged, rather than waiting for a set time.
How often should the inner clear lens be changed?
There is no single interval, because it depends on how much dust, grinding debris and sweat gets in behind the filter. Check the inner lens whenever you change the outer one, and replace it if it is cracked, pitted, scratched or cloudy and cleaning does not clear it.
The outer lens takes most of the spatter, so the inner lens is usually replaced less often, but this varies with the work. Some filters must only be used with the inner lens fitted, so never run without it. Follow your helmet manual for the exact steps.
Can I use the helmet without the cover lenses fitted?
No. Manuals for auto-darkening helmets say the filter should not be used without its cover lenses properly fitted, because they protect the filter surface and, on many designs, the arc sensors from spatter and damage. Running without them can also leave the filter exposed to scratches that are not repairable.
If you have no spare lens, stop and fit a new one before welding. Check your own manual for the correct order and position of the lenses, and replace them if they are damaged, not just dirty.
How do I work out which lens, sweatband or headgear fits my helmet?
Start with the manual and the markings on the helmet and on the filter, which usually identify the helmet series. Compare these with the description of the spare, and where you can, with the old part itself: shape, size, number of fixing points and how it clips on.
Some lenses and headgear fit more than one helmet in a maker's range, while others are specific to one version, so a similar look is not enough. Use genuine parts or parts the maker states are suitable, since protection depends on the part being the right one. Our team can help you match a part if you send the details from the helmet.
How should I clean the lenses without damaging them?
Use a soft, clean, lint-free cloth and wipe gently so that grit is not ground into the surface. Maker manuals say not to use solvents, abrasive cleaners or strong cleaning solutions, and not to submerge the filter in water. Some allow a cloth dampened with mild soapy water, damp but not dripping, so check what your manual permits.
If a cover lens still has spatter or scratches after a gentle wipe, replace it instead of scrubbing. Keep the sensors and solar cells on the filter clean too. Never open the filter yourself.