Optional extras for a heavy-duty inverter welder: remote controls, extension leads, adapters, electrode and work leads, and carts.
How do I choose the right size of electrode lead and work lead?
Cable size depends on three things: the highest welding current you will use, the duty cycle at that current, and the total length of the circuit. The total length means the electrode lead plus the work lead added together, not just the distance to the job.
A higher current or a longer circuit needs a thicker cable. Cable sizing tables link these figures, and the welder's manual is the final word. Oversized cable does not weld better, and undersized cable can overheat, damage the cable and create a fire or shock risk, so do not guess. Our team can help you match a lead to your machine's rating.
Where should I fit the work clamp?
Clamp it directly to the workpiece, or to the bench the workpiece rests on, as close to the weld as is practical. The current should have a short, direct path back to the machine.
Clamp onto clean bare metal: grind or brush away rust, paint or primer under the jaws so the contact is solid and does not overheat or arc. Stray currents are more likely when the return path has high resistance, such as a rusty surface. Do not use rails, pipes or frames as part of the return path unless they are the workpiece itself. Check the clamp spring and jaws regularly.
Why does a longer lead affect my welding?
Every metre of cable adds a little electrical resistance, so a longer lead of the same thickness loses more voltage and can carry less current safely than a shorter one. Very long runs can mean a weaker or less steady arc, and a short or tight arc can be a sign of too much voltage lost in the leads.
Use the shortest leads that reach the job, and step up to a thicker cable if you need a long run. Spread spare length out rather than leaving it in a tight bundle, because bundled cable sheds heat poorly. Follow your machine's manual for lead sizes and lengths.
How do I tell when an electrode lead, holder or clamp needs replacing?
Look for cracked or cut insulation, worn or frayed sections, bare conductor showing, loose or discoloured lugs, and holder or clamp jaws that are pitted, corroded or no longer grip. These faults reduce the current the lead can carry and create hot spots.
A lead or connector that feels hot in normal use is a warning sign. The welder should check cables, plugs, clamps and holders daily and report defects, and damaged parts should be repaired or replaced promptly. Do not weld with leads that have exposed conductors.
Why do my leads or work clamp get hot?
Some warmth during long welding is normal for correctly sized cable. Noticeable heat usually points to a problem: undersized cable for the current and length, a loose lug or connector, a dirty or weak work clamp, or cable bundled so it cannot shed heat.
Stop, switch off and let it cool, then check the connections at the machine, the lugs, the holder and the clamp. Make sure the connectors are fully tightened and the contact surfaces are clean. Undersized or damaged cable can be a fire and shock risk, so replace it rather than carrying on.
How do I match a remote control or extension lead to my welder's socket?
The remote socket on the machine uses a set number of pins, and remote controls, extension leads and adapters come with different pin counts, connector styles and even control voltages. The plug must match the socket, and the pin wiring must match what the machine expects.
Check the manual or the data plate for the remote connection details, count the pins on the old plug, and confirm compatibility with the maker before ordering. Pin functions differ between machines, so do not rewire or mix connectors from different machines on a guess, as that can damage the control circuit.