CK Water Cooled Torches FAQs
Practical answers on running, caring for and choosing parts for water-cooled TIG torches and their cable sets.
What does a water-cooled TIG torch need in order to run?
A water-cooled torch needs a separate cooler (a pump, tank and radiator) that circulates coolant through the torch head and back along the power cable. The cooler is normally connected to the welding machine, so check that yours is designed for the torch and the machine.
Some coolers include flow detection intended to stop the torch overheating if flow is lost, but check whether yours has it and do not rely on it alone. Water cooling is usually chosen for higher-current or long-duty work, but always check the torch's rating and duty cycle on its data plate and in the manual.
Which coolant should I put in a water-cooled TIG torch?
Use the coolant the torch and cooler manufacturers specify, normally a purpose-made torch coolant. Plain tap water is not suitable because scale and algae can build up and block the small passages in the torch head.
Do not use car antifreeze, which can thicken and clog the lines. Distilled water is, at most, a short-term emergency measure. Do not top up a pre-mixed coolant with water, as that changes its mix and its protection against freezing. If you are unsure, follow the cooler manual.
How often should I check or change the coolant and look after the cooler?
Check the coolant level regularly, ideally each day the cooler is used. Keep the cooler clean and blow dust off the radiator fins with compressed air (with the power off), more often in dusty workshops.
There is no single change interval for every coolant. Some low-conductivity coolants need changing more often than others, so follow the schedule in the cooler and coolant instructions. Discoloured, cloudy or slimy coolant is a sign it needs attention.
Why does my water-cooled torch overheat?
The usual cause is poor coolant flow: a low coolant level, a cooler that is not running properly, a kinked or blocked hose, or debris in the narrow passages of the torch. Welding above the torch's rated current for long periods, or on a heavy duty cycle, also overheats it. Loose or worn front-end parts can add to the problem.
Stop welding, check the cooler level and operation, look over the hoses for kinks and leaks, and compare your settings with the torch rating. If the fault persists, have the torch checked rather than carrying on.