iWave 230i DC Water Cooled Parts FAQs
Spares and add-ons for a water-cooled DC TIG welding set: cooling unit, torch neck, cables, adaptors, trolley and function packages.
What should I check on the cooling unit before each welding session?

Check the coolant level before you start, and top up only with the coolant the manufacturer specifies. Look for dust-blocked radiator fins and make sure the fan runs. Check the hoses and fittings for tightness, cracks, bulging or wear, then run the unit and look for leaks before you strike an arc.
If the pump is noisy or the torch runs hot, a low coolant level is a common cause, so check that first, along with kinked hoses and any blockage in the circuit. In dusty workshops the unit usually needs checking more often. Your cooling unit manual sets out the checks and intervals that apply to your equipment.
Can I use plain tap water or car antifreeze in the cooling unit?

Generally not. Use only the coolant that the cooling unit manufacturer specifies for your equipment. Tap water is widely advised against because its minerals can leave deposits in the torch and hoses, and ordinary car antifreeze is not designed for these systems and can contain additives that do not belong there.
Do not mix different coolants, and when you replace the coolant, drain and replace all of it as the manual directs rather than topping up a mixture. Do not dilute a ready-mixed coolant unless the maker says so. Check the manual and the coolant safety data sheet before handling or changing coolant.
What should I do if the cooling unit shows a low flow or low pressure warning?

Treat it as a stop signal. Stop welding, switch the equipment off and do not carry on with a torch that is not being cooled, as it can overheat and be damaged. A flow or pressure warning, a pump that does not circulate, or a tank that keeps needing topping up (which may mean a leak) all need attention before you weld again.
Typical causes listed in cooling unit manuals include a low coolant level, a kinked or blocked hose or other restriction in the circuit, contaminated coolant, or a faulty pump. Where a flow sensor is fitted, it warns you when the coolant stops moving. Follow the troubleshooting section of your cooling unit manual and use a competent service person if the fault persists.
How do I tell when a torch neck needs replacing?

Look for gas leaks at the joints, coolant weeping from the head, a loose or wobbling neck, scorched or distorted parts, damaged threads, or a seat that no longer grips consumables firmly. Rear caps and seals are common leak points, and a worn or flattened seal can let air in and cause porosity in the weld.
If a water-cooled torch is leaking or overheating, repair or replace it rather than keep using it. Flexible necks tend to loosen and wear with use, so check them more often. Follow the torch manual for fitting and sealing.