iWave 230i AC / DC Parts FAQs
Torches, necks, cables, adaptors, trolleys and other accessories for an AC / DC TIG inverter, and how to choose the right ones.
How do I know if my earth cable and clamp are right for a TIG inverter?
The return cable carries the full welding current back to the machine, so it needs to suit the machine's maximum current. The insulation on welding and return leads should be undamaged, the conductor thick enough to carry the current safely, and connectors clean, undamaged and rated for that current.
The circuit is out and back, so a long run adds resistance and voltage drop. Longer runs usually need the next cable size up, and the manual for your inverter normally gives the recommended size. Look for a plug that fits the machine socket snugly, a clamp rated for the current that grips firmly on clean bare metal, and undamaged insulation. Replace a damaged or underrated cable rather than taping it.
Should I choose an air-cooled or a water-cooled TIG torch?
Air-cooled torches are simpler, lighter to run and need no coolant, so they suit lighter work and shorter welds. Water-cooled torches carry extra hoses and need a cooling unit, but they are generally better for higher current and long welding periods because the coolant takes the heat away.
Look at the torch rating together with its duty cycle, which says what share of a ten-minute period it can run at a given current without overheating. A torch rated at a high current can have a much lower duty cycle than at a lower current, and the rating can differ between AC and DC. Check the current range and cooling method in your inverter manual and choose a torch that comfortably covers the work you do.
How do I choose the right collet, collet body or gas lens?
These parts are sized to the tungsten electrode, so choose them to match the electrode diameter you use. A standard collet body releases gas through small holes, while a gas lens holds a mesh screen that spreads the gas into a smoother flow. That can help with coverage on corners and awkward joints and may allow a longer electrode stickout, though the benefit depends on cup size and joint shape.
Collets, bodies and lenses are also specific to the torch series, so a part for one series may not fit another. Check the series marked on your torch or in the manual, then match the size to your electrode. Check a gas lens screen now and then and clean or replace it if it is clogged or discoloured, and replace any parts that are worn or loose.
Why is my arc unstable, and could the return cable be the cause?
Poor contact in the return path is a common cause of a wandering or erratic arc. A stumbling arc and hot cable connections are warning signs of resistance in the circuit. Check that the clamp is gripping clean, bare metal as close as practical to the weld, and that rust, paint or oxide are not getting in the way. Check that the plug is tight in the machine socket, that the clamp and cable are not warm, and that the cable is undamaged.
Other causes include a dull or dirty tungsten, worn torch parts, loose connections, too much or too little gas flow, or a draught across the weld. If the return path is in good order, work through these next and follow your machine manual.