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  • CK-3C116G  CK Wedge Collet. 3 Series
  • CK-3C116G  CK Wedge Collet. 3 Series
  • CK-3C116G  CK Wedge Collet. 3 Series
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Rapid Ref : CK-3C116G  

CK Wedge Collet. 3 Series
CK-3C116G

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Prices From £2.36 ex VAT

CK Worldwide’s Wedge collet is superior to the 50-year-old standard design. The Wedge collet does not have a slot, thus eliminating twisting and deformation of the collet. This make the Wedge collet more durable, lasting 10 times longer than standard split collets. With CK’s patented Wedge collet design the tungsten is put in direct contact with the collet body. The current transfer point is at the collet body creating better arc starting, better arc stability, less resistance heating, and less low current arc wander. The Wedge collet design creates a better mechanical grip requiring less pressure on the back cap to secure the tungsten electrode. This will help eliminate possible stripping of the threads on the torch head itself.

Direct interchangeability with all standard collets! Simply by changing the collet you use. Now you can…

  • Increase productivity
  • Improve quality
  • Eliminate downtim

3 Series Gas Saver Spares FAQs

Practical answers on choosing, fitting and looking after the individual parts of a larger gas saver torch set-up.

Can I mix parts from different torch series or from another gas saver set?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Usually not. Collets, bodies, insulators, back caps and cups are made to fit one particular torch series, and parts from a different series, or from a standard set-up without a gas lens, often will not thread together or seal properly. Even a part that seems to fit can leave a small gap that lets air into the shielding gas.

Match every part to the torch series given in the torch manual or marked on the old part. When several parts need replacing, changing them as a matching group is the safest way to avoid mismatches.

What does the heat shield (insulator) do, and when should it be replaced?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

The heat shield sits between the gas lens body and the cup. Its main job is to help seat the cup and seal the joint so shielding gas cannot escape or air be drawn in, and a missing or wrong insulating part can contaminate the shielding gas. Check the torch manual for exactly what it does on your torch.

Torch makers list separate heat shields for standard, short and large diameter gas lens set-ups, so they are not normally interchangeable. Inspect it whenever you change the cup, and replace it if it is cracked, crumbling, distorted or no longer seats the cup firmly, because a poor seal can let air into the gas.

How do I choose between short, medium and long back caps?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Back cap length is mainly about how much tungsten you need to fit and how much room you have behind the torch head. A long cap takes a full-length electrode, a medium cap is a general-purpose compromise, and a short cap helps in tight spaces but usually means the tungsten has to be cut shorter so that it fits.

Caps are made for a specific torch series, so match the series first and then pick the length. Whichever you choose, check that the cap has its O-ring and that it tightens fully without forcing.

What does a large diameter gas lens and cup set-up change?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

A larger lens body and cup spread a wider blanket of shielding gas, and a gas lens generally lets the tungsten stick out further while keeping good cover. Makers' technical guidance says larger nozzle diameters give a longer laminar flow, while smaller ones suit tight spaces but raise gas velocity and turbulence.

The trade-offs are a bulkier torch head that can block access or your view of the joint, and the need for correctly matched larger parts. Longer stick-out also leaves more tungsten exposed, so pre-flow and post-flow matter. Gas settings depend on the cup, joint and conditions, so follow the torch maker's guidance and test on scrap before welding a real joint.