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Straight answers to the questions people ask when choosing, using and looking after a modular MIG torch made up of a torch body and a hose pack.
On a modular MIG torch the torch body is the front section: the neck, the handle and the parts that hold the contact tip and gas nozzle. The hose pack is the cable assembly that runs back to the wire feeder and carries the wire, gas, current and, on water-cooled types, the coolant.Because the two connect through a quick-release interface, you can usually change a damaged or unsuitable body without replacing the whole hose pack. Check that the body and hose pack are made for the same torch system and the same cooling type before you join them.
Before striking an arc, check the coolant level in the cooler, look over the hoses and fittings, and run the cooler so you can see any leaks while the coolant is flowing. A leak can wet the floor or the work and is an electric shock risk, so fix it before welding.Also keep the cooler's radiator fins clear of dust and make sure the fan and pump are working. Check the cooler's manual for how often to inspect and service it, as it depends on the equipment and how dirty the workshop is.
Use the coolant the torch and cooler makers recommend, mixed as they specify. Plain water is not recommended: current passing through it causes corrosion that dissolves metal from the torch and leaves sediment that can block the circuit and damage the pump. Distilled water gives no protection against freezing. Automotive antifreeze is conductive and may contain additives that block small passages, so use only a coolant approved for your cooler.Coolant ages and becomes more conductive, so replace it when it is discoloured, when a conductivity test shows it is out of the maker's limits, or when the cooler manual says so. A yearly change is often quoted but can be too late. Always follow the cooler manual.
Without coolant flow a water-cooled torch can overheat very quickly, which damages the torch body, the hose pack and the consumables. Common causes are a low coolant level, an air lock, a kinked or blocked hose and a failed pump.A flow switch, sometimes called a flow guard, can be fitted or built into the cooler so that it stops the welding when flow drops. If your set-up has one, check that it works. If you have no protection, watch the cooler's level and flow indicators as part of your routine checks.
Never bend a torch neck by hand or in a vice, as this can damage the insulation and the live parts inside and cause arcing. Do not use the torch as a hammer to knock off spatter either: the insulation at the front of the neck is easily broken by hard blows.Smear a little suitable grease on the O-rings when you fit a body, check them for damage and replace any that are cracked or flattened. Tighten the connections firmly, because loose joints add resistance and heat. If a body is bent or damaged, replace it.
Push-pull torches have a small motor in the handle that pulls the wire while the feeder pushes it. This keeps the wire under steady tension, which makes a big difference with soft wires such as aluminium, and with long cables where friction would otherwise cause erratic feeding.For short cable runs and thicker wire, a standard torch can feed aluminium reasonably well, so you may not need one. A push-pull torch must be used with a feeder or power source that supports it, so check compatibility with your machine first.